This lovely dress was the wedding dress of Anne Porcher Mazyck (1820-1881) who married Gabriel Manigault (1809-1888) on November 4, 1846. The sheer organdy dress has a pleated and ruched bodice, extending into a point below the waistline where the full skirt is tightly gathered. Around the lower portion of the full skirt is a band of beautiful floral embroidery. The round neckline and short sleeves are trimmed with gathered tarlatan; the sleeves also have two narrow bands of silk braid. One sleeve even has a tiny white leather orange blossom bud pinned on. The entire garment is lined with cream silk. The hooks and eyes are missing from the back opening.

While extremely yellowed with age (and remnants of original starch), the dress is still charming in its feminine silhouette, so popular during the 1840s.

Anne was the daughter or Philip Porcher Mazyck and Mary Stanyarne of Charleston. Her husband, Gabriel, was the son of Joseph Manigault and Charlotte Drayton, also of Charleston. He was born in his parents’ house in Wraggborough, now the Joseph Manigault House, open to the public and operated by the Charleston Museum. Gabriel was a staunch supporter of the Confederacy, a signer of the Ordinance of Secession and a Colonel during the war. Several years after the war, he moved his entire family and some other relatives to London, Ontario, to escape a life under Yankee domination.

They had six children, including Edward Middleton Manigault who married Harriet Winstar Barnwell. They were the parents of Ann Mazyck Manigault, who donated the dress to the Museum in 1960.

**The dress will be on display at the Joseph Manigault House for the special Women’s History Month tour tomorrow, March 26, 2014.

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

In honor of Charleston Fashion Week, we take a look at an interesting, and very fashionable, 1870s dress. This gold silk two-piece dress is embroidered all-over with turquoise stars. Slim-fitting in front, the skirt pulls back to accommodate the popular bustle, dwindling a bit by 1876 after rather extravagant fullness in the earlier ‘70s. Throughout this period, trimmings abounded on dresses, this one having contrasting turquoise collar, puffed oversleeves and wide sashing down the front, culminating with a wide belt and mother-of-pearl buckle. The skirt is ornamented with a wide satin band around the hem and two lines of corded lacing, ending in glorious tassels.

This lovely dress was worn in Charleston by Frances Olmsted Marshall (1845-1929). She was the daughter of Episcopal minister, Aaron F. Olmsted and Caroline C. Cook. Frances married Richard Maynard Marshall of Charleston in 1872 and had five children. The dress came to the Museum from her granddaughter, Alida Dana Canfield Sinkler in 1957.

The dress was given with a second bodice, much plainer but with delightful star covered buttons down the front. Studying this bodice, one sees that the sleeves have been cut off as has the bottom of the bodice, raw edges still showing. The style of this bodice appears to date to the 1860s rather than 1870s – the jewel neckline, the double vertical darts in front and the center front fastening from neck to waist. What if Frances had a much plainer dress in the 1860s, complete with very full skirt (and lots of beautiful starry fabric) and had it remade into a more stylish gown for the 1870s? The sleeves could have been re-used, with any problems or shortness concealed by the blue silk oversleeves, and a new bodice constructed using some of the bountiful skirt fabric. The addition of the dazzling blue silk, lacing and bustle rendered the garment totally new – and in style – years later.

On exhibit in Fashion in Fiction, October 19, 2013 to April 6, 2014

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

Pert and pretty and definitely green, this 1950s cocktail dress would be perfect for a St. Patrick’s Day party. Jade green chiffon over green taffeta, the full skirt has a green net petticoat for the stylish bouffant look of the day. The boat neckline softly drapes over the shoulders, echoing the cummerbund-style waistband. The ballerina length was popular in the 1950s as was the V-style back neckline. It has a label: Lorrie Deb / San Francisco, a clothing line first launched in November 1950.

This dress was worn by a daughter of Alvin Arthur & Frances Cains Burbage of Charleston, probably Mary Frances, who was born around 1940.

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

For March – Women’s History Month – we have chosen this incredible appliqué panel, probably made by Martha Cannon Webb Logan around 1840. She, of course, may have worked on it for a number of years. The long panel (17 inches by over 17 feet long) depicts Charleston as a seaport city, from detailed sailing ships, carriages, goods and animals, to stately houses. It was undoubtedly planned in a different format (a bed quilt perhaps), but was cut apart and portions reassembled by a later family member. The original maker’s use of fabrics and appliqué combine to create a fascinating folk art montage.  

Martha (1783-1843) was the daughter of William Webb and Margaret D’Oyley.  She married William Logan in 1819. The quilt pieces passed to her granddaughter, Martha Webb “Patty” Logan and then to her niece, Alice Logan Wright who gave it to the Museum in 1977, in memory of the many generations of Logans who have served the town, the province, and the country.

In 1990, Sandi Fox at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art included this piece in her exhibition and book, Wrapped in Glory: Figurative Quilts & Bedcovers 1700-1900, in which she postulates both the maker of the quilt piece and her sources for many of the individual motifs. Just recently, a new study has been taken on by Brenda Rousseau of Colonial Williamsburg and Kathleen Staples, an independent researcher, to try to figure out what might have been the original format for this intriguing piece.

Need to zoom in a little closer? Click here for a bit larger view.

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

Naval officer’s sword
Unmarked
Continental Europe
1850-1860

Captain John Morris Wampler, chief of engineers at Battery Wagner, carried this non-regulation 1841 pattern piece featuring an eagle’s head pommel, leather-covered grip and folding guard, this formidable saber. Customary to some officers, Wampler had his name engraved on the scabbard’s middle brass band. 

Assigned to General Pierre G.T. Beauregard’s staff, Captain Wampler returned to Charleston just in time for the disastrous summer of 1863 and the Federal siege of Battery Wagner. A surveyor by trade, Wampler directed the construction ancillary batteries, bombproofs and powder magazines within Wagner all the while under near-constants artillery fire. Sadly, it was inside one of his bombproofs (or semi-submerged, reinforced interiors capable of withstanding indirect shelling), where he died instantly upon a direct hit from a Union gunboat on August 17, 1863.

Wampler’s remains were returned to his native Virginia later that month and were buried in Union Cemetery in Leesburg. Preserving his sword for the next 31 years, his widow, Kate, presented it to the City of Charleston on September 11, 1894.

Author’s note: many will recognize this as the cover piece on The Charleston Museum’s brochure around town

Weaponry Wednesday: Each Wednesday we post an object (or group of objects) from the Charleston Museum’s diverse weapons collection. Many Weaponry Wednesday items may be on permanent exhibit in our armory or elsewhere in the museum, but some pieces rarely see exhibition, temporary or permanent, but are well worth sharing.  We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on WEAPONRY WEDNESDAY! Also, we always want to learn more about our collection - if you have some insights on a piece, please feel free to share!  #WeaponryWednes.

Fashions of the 1970s were definitely over the top, as evidenced by this stunning aqua evening dress. It is overlaid with aqua chiffon covered with large abstract floral designs – some painted, some appliquéd colored taffeta (pin, blue, purple, yellow and lime green) edged with gold metallic embroidery and embellished with gold sequins and rhinestones. It has a high corded waistline, popular for the period, with a slightly gathered long skirt. The bodice is only partially lined, leaving the long sleeves and upper bodice sheer. It has a zipper closure in back and bears a label: “Elinor Simmons / for Malcolm Starr® / Made in The British Crown Colony of Hong Kong.”

This amazing dress was worn by Alice LeMacks Patrick here in Charleston to the wedding of Robert Lockwood and Jean Louise Schill on August 22, 1970. Alice had been given this dress by Blossom Krawcheck, of Krawcheck’s Ladies Companion Shop at 313 King Street. This was part of the fashionable Jack Krawcheck men’s clothing business, originally opened in 1922 and closing in 1995, long after his death.

Malcolm Starr (1924-2008) was head of the popular American ready-to-wear company started by his father in the 1940s. He was one of the first to lease factories in India and China for manufacturing and operated boutiques in Hong Kong and Japan. After his father’s death in 1969, Malcolm ran the business until 1976. One of the designer names associated with Malcolm Starr was Elinor (Rizkallah) Simmons from the early 1960s until 1972. Their simple lines were often enhanced by elaborate beading and embroidery, the work done in Hong Kong.

This dress is currently on exhibit in Fashion Flashback: 1970s (January 18 to April 27, 2014)

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

These two designer bags were made in 2003 and signed by Charleston designer, Mary K. Norton. They were retailed under her Moo Roo / Charleston label at her shop at 316 King Street. 

The black satin purse with three fabric magnolias is entitled Southern Lady. The stiff fabric bag has a flap over the font, closing with a magnetic button. It is lined with black satin. 

The flamboyant ostrich feather bag is entitled Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The flowing feather extend beyond the bottom of the bag. It is open at the top with a small flap to close with a magnetic button and the bag is lined with black satin.

Mary K. Norton founded her company in 1998; within eight years it grew to international proportions and locations. She created handbags and shoes for the stars. Her whimsical yet sophisticated designs appealed on many levels and found favor with both red carpet stars and stylish clients. Her boutiques were forced to close in 2009, but in 2010 she restarted her Moo Roo brand and is now even back on King Street at Art Mecca of Charleston.

Both bags are on exhibit in Fashion Accessories: Purses January 25 – April 27, 2014

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

This lovely embroidered wool shawl was purchased in 1838 by Dr. Henry Boylston as a 17th birthday present for his daughter, Mary Eleanor, born on January 21, 1821 in Charleston. The shawl had been imported from France by Mrs. Day, who kept a shop here. The shawl consists of a large central square with embroidered bouquets in opposing corners and surrounded by a pieced border of 26 embroidered squares in red, cream and blue wool. Each square features a different flower, beautifully worked in satin stitch, outline and French knots. A delicate tambour-work border outlines each block. What a lovely gift for a young lady!

But the shawl’s interesting history does not stop there. Mary Eleanor (1821-1900) married John Laurens Toomer in 1840 and their daughter, Harriet Rutledge Toomer married Stephen Decatur Doar in 1885. During World War I, Mrs. Doar sold the shawl to help raise money for French orphans. It was purchased by Robert Goodwyn Rhett, former mayor of Charleston and President of the U.S. Chamber of Commerce in 1916 and 1917. After the war, in 1923, Rhett donated the shawl to the Museum along with its charming story.

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

Hats can be stunning fashion statements while keeping the wearer warm. These two hats, perfect for a chilly winter day, are currently in Fashion Accessories: Hats, on exhibit until January 19, 2014.

This man’s brown beaver fedora was purchased by the donor’s husband, Dr. Herbert Ulysses Seabrook in 1930 for $32.50. Dr. Seabrook (1884-1941) was an African American physician practicing in Charleston on Spring Street. He also worked as the director for the Hospital & Training School for Nurses. Born in Charleston, he was the son of Williams and Amerintha Alston Seabrook. He married Miriam DeCosta in 1923. Their papers are housed at the Avery Research Center, College of Charleston. 

The fedora, invented in 1891, features a wide brim, a hat band or ribbon and a pinched and indented crown. It was enormously popular in the 1930s when almost every man owned at least one. The style actually started out as a woman’s fashion, but by the 1920s, men had adopted this practical and attractive hat.

Our warm choice for women is this amazing hat, c. 1912, black velvet covered with iridescent feathers and a stuffed bird. It bears a Stern Brothers / Paris New York label, a company founded in 1867 by Isaac, Louis and Benjamin Stern. They built several impressive locations, including an enormous cast-iron façade store on West 23rd Street. It was an elegant store noted for its fashionable clothes; ladies from all over New York came to Stern Brothers for their Paris fashions. Doormen wearing top hats greeted customers as they entered.

This luxurious hat was worn by Lucy Robertson Garden (1845-1930), the wife of Hugh Richardson Garden of Sumter.

Both of these hats are currently on exhibit in Fashion Accessories: Hats (June 19, 2013 - January 19, 2014). 

TEXTILE TUESDAYS: Each Tuesday we post a piece from the Charleston Museum’s textile collection.  Some items have been on exhibit, some will eventually be shown in our Historic Textiles Gallery and some may be just too fragile to display. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on TEXTILE TUESDAY! #TextileTuesday

Happy Birthday Louis!

Louis Manigault was born to Charles and Elizabeth Heyward Manigault on November 21, 1828 in Paris.  His father was a rice planter and his mother was the daughter of one of the wealthiest rice planters in the south, Nathaniel Heyward. The Charleston Museum’s Joseph Manigault House was built for Louis’s great-uncle.
 
He received his early education at Mr. Cotes’ School in Charleston and entered Yale College in 1845 where he co-founded the Alpha Sigma Phi Fraternity.  He left Yale in August of 1847 to take a European trip with his brother, Charles, never to return or graduate.  After his travels he decided to become a rice planter like his father.  Charles had purchased Gowrie Plantation, a 300-acre tract of land located on Argyle Island in Georgia, in 1833 and Louis started managing it for him in 1852 at the age of 24.

During the Civil War, Louis continued to run Gowrie as well as serving in the Confederate Army as an assistant to the Surgeon General. After the war ended, the Manigault family fortune, including the plantations, were ruined.  He was, for a short time, successful at running Gowrie but it would eventually stop thriving at rice production.

Louis was meticulous in his record keeping and, fortunately, many of his plantation journals and correspondence have survived for us to view today.  The drawings are from his Gowrie Plantation journal he recorded from 1876 – 1886.  The journal is leather bound and contains plantation dealings, various addresses, train schedules, as well as four sketches of his sister’s house, Emma Manigault Jenkins.

  1. Louis Manigault (1828-1899) at age 22, perhaps shortly after returning from his European travels. This carte de visite was taken at the  studio of F.A. Nowell located at 263 King Street, Charleston, South Carolina.
  2. rough drawing of crest. roughly drawn, and wrongly shaded, but gives an outline as to exact size required for the Pedigree.To be done in India ink, and black. not colored in any manner.
  3. Book plate bearing Louis’s crest. The Manigault crest depicts three bound falcons inside a shield, two on top and one on bottom. Directly on top of the shield is the bust of Native American with a quiver of arrows on his back. The bound falcons represent the Manigault family at peace but ever ready for war. The bust represents the family’s arrival to South Carolina at the time when Native Americans occupied most of the land. And again, the quiver being full of arrows illustrates the family at peace but always prepared to fight.The family motto is directly below the shield and translates from Latin: It is better to anticipate then avenge.
  4. from Gowrie settlement 13th feb’y 1880
  5. Gowrie settlement looking N. Feb. 1880
  6. from barnyard mound looking W
  7. Gowrie Thresher bearing E.S.E. Feb. 1880
  8. bearing W. standing on No 10 S. bank outside of floodgate
  9. store bearing S.- ½ way between G. & E.H. near back river 11 [?].
  10. bearing N.W. Gowrie mound 2 new houses View taken, 2nd April 1886. L.M.
  11. “Waste-way.” 75 feet wide. looking S.E. towards the River from the inside margin. 2nd April 1886. L.M.

Links of interest:

  1. Louis’s elaborately embroidered vest, 1853
  2. Additional photos of Louis and his father Charles
  3. The Manigault Plantation Journal, compiled by Louis Manigault between 1856 and 1879. University of North Carolina manuscript collection
  4. Louis’s portrait, 1855. Gibbes Museum of Art

EPHEMERA FRIDAY: Each Friday we post a selection or small collection from the Charleston Museum’s Archives. Some items may be on exhibit, some may be too fragile to display and some may be too unusual to fit into our typical Lowcountry exhibit themes. We will occasionally ask for help identifying people or places in photographs that have come to us with little or no information. We hope you enjoy our selection each week – do let us know if there’s something in particular you’d like to see on EPHEMERA FRIDAY.